A 


NEW SYSTEM 




FOR 


duttiqg 


Pkqtctloor^ ! 


UNEQUALLED FOR 


SIMPLICITY AND ADAPTED TO ALL 


FORMS 


OF THE HUMAN FIGURE. 


BY G. F. WALL, 


• 


PUBLISHER. 




SOTJTHBRIDGE, MASS. : 




1879. 



A NEW SYSTEM 



duttii^ rkqtciloo:q$ ! 



UNEQUALLED FOR SIMPLICITY AND ADAPTED TO ALL 
FORMS OF THE HUMAN FIGURE. 



BY G. F. WALL, 

PUBLISHER. 



toOUTHBEII>&B, MASS. 

1879. 












i.tgiit. 
(.E>). F. WALL 



i 



UITIIRRIIX;E JOl.RNA] 



-T 




to t$t trait. 



QMNTLEMEN : 

Permit me to introduce to your notice a System for Cutting 
Pants, with an explanation of the proper method of measuring and 
drafting the same. 

It is a great satisfaction to the Cutter, as it certainly is to the 
Customer, to see his garment fit properly and with unerring exactness, 
feo that the shape and proportions of the Human Figure shall be ex- 
hibited to the best advantage. 

In presenting this for your inspection I do so with some diffidence, 
there having been so many systems claiming your attention that true 
merit is liable to be treated with suspicion. 

However, I solicit for this, the strictest investigation and scrutiny: 
and if found to be fairly demonstrated that I have introduced a real 
improvement by econonrsing time and money. I trust that the trade 
will give it that credit which such an investigation should receive. 

I have used this System or Eule in a crude form for fifteen years, 
and from time to time improved it as experience has dictated, 
and have now put it in a form so simple that any one can learn it 
without personal instructions, and publish it for the Trade. 

Very Respectfully Yours, 

GEO F. WALL. 



Explanation of the System. 

In the first place the Cutter should be particular to take correct 
measures and to know for what purpose each measure is taken. There- 
fore in cutting by this system the bottom of pants is obtained by a 
division of the measures taken for the size, adding one inch for makiug 
up; this, and the size of pant at the knee are the only ones where 
anything is allowed for making up. The thigh is obtained by a division 
of the same; the hips and waist the same, and all allowances made on 
the several scales which are put on to a rule in proper form and num- 
bered, the tape measure only being used to obtain the lengths, and, as 
I said before, at ths bottom and knee. 



Directions for Measuring. 

It is of special importance that the customer stands in a natural 
position, by which I mean that position assumed in walking or stand- 
ing. And let the tailor explans to his customer that the garment will 
fit him best in the position in which the measure is taken. Ever 
mindful of the directions given, he will take the following measures 
for pants: 

.Place the end of the tape measure at the top of the hips and 
measure to the thigh for hight of pants 9 3-4, to knee 23, around the 
waist 30, hips, 36, thigh dress side 22. I then take the tape measure 
with the thumb and fore finger of the left hand and carry close up to 
the fork, for length inside 30, knee, 20, bottom 18, thigh undress side 
23. This completes the measures. 



Explanation of Diag. 1. 



— 



T 



X 



At-*s 



~^ 



m- 



Draw line G on edge of cloth. 
Mark down from 2 9 3-4 for height of Pants; 
to knee 22 1-2: from B to D, iength of 
Pants, 20. Square from line G-. lines A 
at top and H at. bottom. 
From D to I is IS 1-2 scale 1, Bottom. 
" I to J is IS 1-2 "2. 
•* J to K is 18 1-2 " 2, 

- E and F, using point J as a pivot. 
From B to M is scale 3, Hip. ' 
MtoO 

O to N - ; 4. -• 
P •■ 6, ; - 

•• T. Thigh, dress 
i; R " 7, '• undress side. 
Draw line 12 from J through 2s , extending 

it through the top of the fore part at V. 
From T to T is scale 8, V list. 

•• TtoUis ■ ■:. 
Draw line from T through O and P. 
Draw line from B to I and from Q to K. 
All the points having been obtained for the 
fore part, form according to taste and 
fashion. 



Explanation of Diag. 2. 




Lay fore part on remaining 
cloth, allowing sufficient quantity 
of cloth for points 11 at top, 9 at 
hip and 14 at bottom. 
From K to 14 is 1-2 size of bot- 
tom by measure, allowing for 

seams. 
From 1 to L is 1-2 size of bot- 
tom by measure, allowing for 
seams. 
Sweep from R to S by point J; 

also from B for line W, and 

from U for line X. 
From B to 9 is scale 3 Hip. 

" RtoS "3 " 
V to 11 " 9 Waist. 
Extend line 12 up through back 

part. From V to 13 is scale 4, Hip 
Draw line from 11 to half way 

between points J and 14. 
Draw line from 13 to (^ for seat. 
Form according to taste and 

fashiou. 

As a proof measure for hips 1 
apply across the fore part and 
back part, allowing 2 inches for 
making up, moving the seat line 
in or out as the measure indicates. 
Foi corpulent men this measure is very important, as almost al- 
.uo much cloth ... the seat. 



Explanation of Diag. 3. 



BOYS' PANTS. 




I draft all Boys' Pants that measure 
33 hip and under without any dress 
being taken out. Consequently the 
points at hip and waist are changed 
somewhat. All others except those 
that are named are obtained the same 
as in the Gents' Pants. 
Mark from M to P, scale 6 Hip. 
From P to N, scale 4 Hip. 

Then lay the short arm of square on 
line A, the long arm touching at P, 
and mark line B, This locates point 
T. From T to U is scale 9 waist. 

These are all the points altered for 
Boy's Pants. 



It will be found that for corpulent m 

...... slouch^ 



